For the gas fuel cap, i checked and it was previously not tightened by me, it said i have to hear 3 clicks and that means it is fine. So now i have closed it back with 3 clicks but i see that it goes beyond that if i want it to, it is like there are more clicks i can make, sort of it keeps on revolving.
Bad gas cap ?

 

Is this the part which may need to be changed for the P1738 to go away, how can i confirm ?

28600-P6H-003 - Honda SWITCH ASSY., OIL PRESSURE

 

It most likely was the gas cap not sealing properly. The code should go away by itself; generally, some codes will go away if the problem is not detected in two consecutive drive cycles.

If you want to disconnect the battery, use a 10mm wrench or an adjustable wrench and just remove the black negative (-) cable. You will need your radio security code to get the radio working after that.




3 clicks is fine, don't over-do it. Gas cap probably is okay.

That should be the part based on the other links. If you want I'll double-check. It should be the same regardless for the different trims. However, let me know the following:

4 or 6 cylinders.
Coupe (2 doors) or sedan (4 doors).
Automatic or manual.
California or non-California.

 

Here are the details

4 Cylinder
Sedan 4 doors
Automatic Transmission
No clue about Californica or non-california - If you can tell me how to get that info then i can tell you.

In the mean time for the P1456, should i do this...

1. Fit the Gas cap properly
2. Wait for 4-5 days and then go to Orilley and get the codes again and hope that P1456 is gone ?

Also if it does not go then first and foremost troubleshoot the P1738 and then the P1456 as the P1738 is probably on priority.

The above mentioned part is like 50-60 $. How much labor am i expecting on this and how to 100% confirm whether this part will resolve the issue ?
In short, what do i tell the next mechanic i meet ?

 

Since you have two codes, to get faster results I would try to reset the ECU and see if they come back. Instead of disconnecting the battery, you can try removing the No. 13 (7.5A) back-up/clock fuse on the interior passenger side fuse box for 20-30 seconds. If that doesn't work, try the No. 6 (15A) ECM/PCM fuse on the interior driver's side dash fuse box.

Honda part number 28600-P6H-003 looks to be the correct part. You cannot 100% confirm this part is the problem without probably paying someone to competently perform the diagnosis. Even at that, mechanics are not always correct. However, as shown in the links I provided previously, that part appears to be usually the culprit.

 

Suddenly the light went away
Dont know how it happened. May be the gas cap ??
Not sure though. Will have to monitor the situation for sometime and see if it comes back again.

Now since the light is gone, are the codes reset in the system ?
So incase the light comes back chances are that this time the codes may be new or only one of these or what ??

 

It may be due to the gas cap for one of the codes. The computer probably didn't detect the same problem from the sensors during your other drive cycles. It may have cleared; but, it can later store a pending code. Generally, if the computer detects a problem at one of the sensors, it usually stores it as a pending code; if it detects it again in the next drive cycle, the check engine light comes on.

If the light comes back, get the code(s) read again, it may be one or more same codes or even a new one. Sometimes a different problem may set off a bunch of seemingly unrelated codes; for example, for your generation Accord 4 cylinders, if there was a wire short to ground in the Blk/Yellow alternator wire, it may set off a bunch of the following codes together: P0135, P0141, and P1298 for non-ULEV models or P0141, P1166, P1167, and P1298 for ULEV models. See this link:

"http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p=40760968&postcount=13"

However, your codes are not the same, just showing you other scenarios.