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98 Accord no start

  #1  
Old 08-15-2011, 04:49 PM
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Default 98 Accord no start

I've got a 98 Accord LX, 4 cylinder, that won't start. It was running fine before this, then I went out one morning, and it wouldn't start. No recent work had been done or anything like that. Been doing a lot of reading and research, but I'm running out of ideas. Here's the details:

**Engine cranks strong, but doesn't show any signs of catching.
**CEL was on for a few days before this happened, pulled 5 codes-P0136,P0138,P0450,P0453,P1738. These look to be O2 sensor and some emissions sensors, but don't seem to be anything that would prevent starting. (happy to be wrong about this) Cleared codes, and now CEL comes on for 2 seconds, and goes out, when key is turned on.
**Fuel pump primes for 2 seconds when key is turned on. Main relay was tested and seems to be working fine.
**Cracked open a bolt on the fuel line near the engine, and have pressure, but haven't checked with a gauge.
**All 4 spark plug wires have spark (it might be weak spark, looked more yellow than blue/white, but I'm not sure)
**Starts with starting fluid (doesn't exactly run, but catches/stumbles for a second, which I think is typical with starting fluid)
**Fuel injectors have +12v with key turned on.
**Ignition switch was replaced by me a year or two ago.

Seems like a fuel problem rather than spark at this point. It doesn't look like the injectors are getting the ground pulse from the ECU when cranking, but I'm not positive. I was testing with a digital multimeter, and it might not have been able to respond quick enough to register. I suppose I should test this with a test light.

Distributor looks okay, but I haven't dealt with distributor issues much, so I'm not sure what to look for. No obvious oil leaks or melted parts, though, and spark is getting to all 4 wires. Any other ideas?
 
  #2  
Old 08-15-2011, 05:14 PM
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It sounds like fuel to me too with the positive starting fluid test.

I would unplug a fuel injector, then connect a 12V test light across the two terminals. If the light flashes when you try to start the car, then the injectors are working properly.
 
  #3  
Old 08-16-2011, 10:56 PM
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Picked up a test light, and tested a fuel injector plug, it's not lighting up when I crank. So that would confirm that the injectors are not getting the ground pulse from the ECU, right? What can cause that?

I thought I had read that certain pins on the ECU have to be getting power or else they won't ground the injectors, but never found any specific information for my year. I also thought I read that the distributor was somehow involved in the ECU sending the injector pulse, but couldn't quite ferret out the details.

Anything else I should test, or any other ideas? Thanks!
 
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:08 PM
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Some of those codes you listed are not Honda codes.

I think that your PCM (aka ECU) is bad. It could be a blown ecu fuse, so check the fuses. There should be an ECU fuse (or PCM fuse). The backup/radio fuse was a fuse for the ECU on 94-97 accords, so you might want to check them out as well.

If the sensors in the distributor were not working, you would get a code for them, plus you likely would not get spark.

I would look for a engine computer from a site like car-part.com. That site searches junkyards by price or distance to see if there is an inexpensive one near where you live.

There was a recall for replacing the ignition switch on some 98-02 accords. You may want to call your local dealership to see if your car was part of the recall and see the ignition switch was replaced. This likely isn't your problem, but it can't hurt to find out.
 
  #5  
Old 08-19-2011, 12:21 AM
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Okay, I'm an idiot. The immobilizer light on the dash is blinking when the key is on. The car has an aftermarket remote start system, but nothing has changed with that system for years. I think the immobilizer bypass unit is a DEI 555U.

Okay, so new questions: Can the ECU/immobilizer unit just 'forget' the key codes for no reason? I suppose I should try to remove that aftermarket bypass unit, just to eliminate it as a possible problem. Is there a 'limp home mode' to temporarily bypass the immobilizer, in order to drive it to a dealer to be re-coded, or would I just have to tow it in?

Oh, and the ignition switch has been replaced twice, once by the dealer under recall, and once by me a couple years ago.
 
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