Whining noise on cold start up
#1
Whining noise on cold start up
When the car has been sitting over night, it cranks a couple times and starts up, not right away like it normally does after it has warmed up.
After the cold start up there is a whine sound the increases with rpm. Sounds like a mini supercharger. Car runs a little rough at this time too.
Usually throws a CEL the two that are logged are my code 9 and 22.
I have replaced
-my entire distributor
-Rotor and cap
-Fuel filter
-Pcv valve
-Coolant fan temp sensor
-Engine temp sender
-Spark plugs
-Air filter
-ignition timing set to spec.
-Fuel system cleaner.
-Also run techron supplemented fuel at every fill up.
What could this noise be? why does it throw the CEL? Why is it only at cold start ups?
After the cold start up there is a whine sound the increases with rpm. Sounds like a mini supercharger. Car runs a little rough at this time too.
Usually throws a CEL the two that are logged are my code 9 and 22.
I have replaced
-my entire distributor
-Rotor and cap
-Fuel filter
-Pcv valve
-Coolant fan temp sensor
-Engine temp sender
-Spark plugs
-Air filter
-ignition timing set to spec.
-Fuel system cleaner.
-Also run techron supplemented fuel at every fill up.
What could this noise be? why does it throw the CEL? Why is it only at cold start ups?
#2
Code 9 is CYP sensor error and can mean faulty sensor in distributor. Since you've replaced the distributor, you need to check the resistance at the distributor first, then reconnect and check at ECU harness connector (under passengers foot area). Resistance should be 700-1000 ohms (no sure of spec). If you get zero or infinite, then something is wrong. If all checks out well, then ECU may have a fault.
I had to replace ECU in my 94EX to fix a persistent code 9. Above check confirmed that sensor was fine. I also had replaced distributor.
Code 22 is VTEC pressure solenoid circuit fault. It could be a faulty solenoid or faulty wiring/connector. Check solenoid first. If you find open/short circuit, the solenoid winding is bad. Replace solenoid valve assembly. A used part will be your low cost option. Check car-part.com and ebay.
good luck
I had to replace ECU in my 94EX to fix a persistent code 9. Above check confirmed that sensor was fine. I also had replaced distributor.
Code 22 is VTEC pressure solenoid circuit fault. It could be a faulty solenoid or faulty wiring/connector. Check solenoid first. If you find open/short circuit, the solenoid winding is bad. Replace solenoid valve assembly. A used part will be your low cost option. Check car-part.com and ebay.
good luck
#4
Download the 94-97 Accord Manual from Online Manuals links in DIY forum.
Manual will show the connectors. There are three connectors to ECU and the middle one (B) is one to be disconnected. The Orn2 (pin11) and Wht (Pin12) are wires to be checked (same wires as at distributor). This information is found in the Fuel and Emissions section.
good luck
Manual will show the connectors. There are three connectors to ECU and the middle one (B) is one to be disconnected. The Orn2 (pin11) and Wht (Pin12) are wires to be checked (same wires as at distributor). This information is found in the Fuel and Emissions section.
good luck
#5
just to be certain im doing this right..
i tested all 3 pairs of pins all tested between 700-1200 ohm
one thing it asks me to test for is continuity when tested to ground.
i just put positive tester to each pin and had the negitive tester to battery ground. i assume you dont want a reading?
i also tested the vtec switch and read 16ohm so does that mean its bad?
i tested all 3 pairs of pins all tested between 700-1200 ohm
one thing it asks me to test for is continuity when tested to ground.
i just put positive tester to each pin and had the negitive tester to battery ground. i assume you dont want a reading?
i also tested the vtec switch and read 16ohm so does that mean its bad?
#7
The two pins of interest are 4 & 8, on the lower side of the picture. Since you measured a good resistance, they are fine as would be expected w/ a new distributor.
Resistance is measured pin-pin, not pin to ground. Pin to ground checks would be appropriate if you find a very low resistance perhaps indicating a wiring or connector fault.
Next, disconnect at the ECU and test same two wires on B connector as described above. If you get very similar resistance, then ECU is likely failed. If resistance is open or shorted, then a wiring or connector fault exists beyond the connector you imaged.
My 94 Accord Manual shows code 22 as Vtec pressure switch, not solenoid. So the info I gave you earlier (from googling at office) must be wrong. You need to go through diagnostics for Code 22, however you probably need to replace the pressure switch, not the solenoid valve.
good luck
Resistance is measured pin-pin, not pin to ground. Pin to ground checks would be appropriate if you find a very low resistance perhaps indicating a wiring or connector fault.
Next, disconnect at the ECU and test same two wires on B connector as described above. If you get very similar resistance, then ECU is likely failed. If resistance is open or shorted, then a wiring or connector fault exists beyond the connector you imaged.
My 94 Accord Manual shows code 22 as Vtec pressure switch, not solenoid. So the info I gave you earlier (from googling at office) must be wrong. You need to go through diagnostics for Code 22, however you probably need to replace the pressure switch, not the solenoid valve.
good luck
Last edited by TexasHonda; 05-13-2011 at 06:51 AM.
#9
Okay I want to make sure I'm doing this right. I checked the two pins on the bottom right 11 and 12 the furthest one to the right being pin 9
08-07-06-05-04-03-02-01
16-15-14-13-12-11-10-09
It came back with 9ohm
Am I testing it right?
08-07-06-05-04-03-02-01
16-15-14-13-12-11-10-09
It came back with 9ohm
Am I testing it right?