'92 Accord Battery Drain
#1
06-09-2010, 08:52 PM
'92 Accord Battery Drain
Hi all,
I'm in the process of trying to fix a battery drain on my 1992 Accord and need some help...
*There's a 5.4-5.6 amp drain with the key off.
*Fuses and relays in both fuse boxes have been pulled with no change.
*Alternator lead was pulled with no change.
*No lights on, no motor noises, nothing obvious.
Does anyone have some thoughts or experience here?
Thanks in advance!
I'm in the process of trying to fix a battery drain on my 1992 Accord and need some help...
*There's a 5.4-5.6 amp drain with the key off.
*Fuses and relays in both fuse boxes have been pulled with no change.
*Alternator lead was pulled with no change.
*No lights on, no motor noises, nothing obvious.
Does anyone have some thoughts or experience here?
Thanks in advance!
#2
06-10-2010, 10:19 AM
I would disconnect the two battery leads on the engine bay fuse box to eliminate the fuse protected wiring in the car as the problem. You can also disconnect + lead the starter, but make sure you disconnect the battery before you do this.
I would also have the batter tested.
Is there any modifications done electrically in the car like a stereo system?
I would also have the batter tested.
Is there any modifications done electrically in the car like a stereo system?
#3
06-10-2010, 08:08 PM
Excuse me for asking the obvious, is the battery (clean connections) new and good? Alternator putting out good power?
I had a similar situation. Got out my VOM (Volt Ohm Meter - seen them for $5.00), using the Amperage setting, disconnected the battery +, and put the meter in-line. I could see Milliamperage draw. If I opened the door it would "pin" the needle as the dome light came on. I had to look and look. I disconnected things and checked anything that could draw power. Trunk light, Stereo and such. To make a long story short, it was a bad seat belt/indicator that was pulling a small amount of power. What a hassle it was to find it. Good Luck.
I had a similar situation. Got out my VOM (Volt Ohm Meter - seen them for $5.00), using the Amperage setting, disconnected the battery +, and put the meter in-line. I could see Milliamperage draw. If I opened the door it would "pin" the needle as the dome light came on. I had to look and look. I disconnected things and checked anything that could draw power. Trunk light, Stereo and such. To make a long story short, it was a bad seat belt/indicator that was pulling a small amount of power. What a hassle it was to find it. Good Luck.
#5
06-11-2010, 12:13 AM
Been Around A Long Time Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: In The Desert ( Sahara ? )
Posts: 4,754
did you remove the main fuse ?? 60 amp under hood fuse box.........if drain still there most likely it is starter issue
did you remove ALL the fuses ( both fuse boxes ??) 1 at a time and watched the multimeter after every fuse being removed and never went down??? if so the only component that is a direct power from battery is the starter ...because if you removed all the fuses , it should have gone down ,, I would try it again, carefully removing the fuses 1 at a time and watching the multimeter for any drops ,,
is there a non factory components that is wired ( powered ) directly to battery??
did you remove ALL the fuses ( both fuse boxes ??) 1 at a time and watched the multimeter after every fuse being removed and never went down??? if so the only component that is a direct power from battery is the starter ...because if you removed all the fuses , it should have gone down ,, I would try it again, carefully removing the fuses 1 at a time and watching the multimeter for any drops ,,
is there a non factory components that is wired ( powered ) directly to battery??
#6
06-11-2010, 02:54 PM
I'm a neighbor trying to help nickel11. She's busy, so I thought that I would chime in with some responses.
PAHonda -- no recent mod's, but car bought used many years ago. Has worked well until recently. Battery starts car nicely, but the current draw exists with everything off.
WickedPete -- good battery terminals.
JimBlake -- This current draw is pretty solid. It holds a nominal 5.5 Amp reading on a Fluke DVM. Checked it with an old Heathkit electrical system analyzer, and it evaluated the battery, alternator, regulator, and diodes as good.
DesertHonda -- 1, we have eliminated the main fuse. No change.
2, Why would the starter draw a steady 5.5 Amp without trying to actuate the starter solenois. No motor noises (from the starter) are heard.
3, Pulled all fuses on bith fuse boxes one at a time. No change. There are several relays on the dashboard fuse box we haven't been able to get to, and the main relay (buried above the cruise control module) may be next, but we can't imagine what would be the issue.
For all of you --- 60 watts will heat up nicely. It should be easy to detect with a hand. Is the starter motor a reasonable place to begin. What else is in the circuitry hooked directly to the battery (no fuse/relay intervention)? BTW, cigarette lighter is removed from the socket.
PAHonda -- no recent mod's, but car bought used many years ago. Has worked well until recently. Battery starts car nicely, but the current draw exists with everything off.
WickedPete -- good battery terminals.
JimBlake -- This current draw is pretty solid. It holds a nominal 5.5 Amp reading on a Fluke DVM. Checked it with an old Heathkit electrical system analyzer, and it evaluated the battery, alternator, regulator, and diodes as good.
DesertHonda -- 1, we have eliminated the main fuse. No change.
2, Why would the starter draw a steady 5.5 Amp without trying to actuate the starter solenois. No motor noises (from the starter) are heard.
3, Pulled all fuses on bith fuse boxes one at a time. No change. There are several relays on the dashboard fuse box we haven't been able to get to, and the main relay (buried above the cruise control module) may be next, but we can't imagine what would be the issue.
For all of you --- 60 watts will heat up nicely. It should be easy to detect with a hand. Is the starter motor a reasonable place to begin. What else is in the circuitry hooked directly to the battery (no fuse/relay intervention)? BTW, cigarette lighter is removed from the socket.
#7
06-11-2010, 05:43 PM
Been Around A Long Time Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: In The Desert ( Sahara ? )
Posts: 4,754
if you removed the main fuse and there still is a draw,,,,,,,,do me a favor,, remove the power cable that goes to the starter from the battery positive terminal,,,,,,,,,
Does the car have ABS ?? if so, remove all the fuses in the abs fuse box ..
Does the car have ABS ?? if so, remove all the fuses in the abs fuse box ..
Last edited by deserthonda; 06-11-2010 at 06:03 PM.
#8
06-12-2010, 07:53 AM
Same result as pulling the main fuse --- the drain drops from 5.5 to 2.7 amps. (I had not mentioned this earlier, because it confused me and I thought that I had made a measurement error.)
The Chilton manuals from the library only refer to two fuse boxes: under the dash and under the hood. Any clue on where the ABS one might be hidden?
The Chilton manuals from the library only refer to two fuse boxes: under the dash and under the hood. Any clue on where the ABS one might be hidden?
#10
06-13-2010, 11:23 AM
There's not too many places where the battery cables go.
- Fusebox & from there to nearly everything.
- Starter.
- Alternator.
Remove the ground (-) wire from the battery so you don't short something with a wrench. Disconnect the hot wire from the alternator. That can be a drain if you have a bad voltage regulator or diode bridge. Don't see that very often but don't take it for granted.
- Fusebox & from there to nearly everything.
- Starter.
- Alternator.
Remove the ground (-) wire from the battery so you don't short something with a wrench. Disconnect the hot wire from the alternator. That can be a drain if you have a bad voltage regulator or diode bridge. Don't see that very often but don't take it for granted.