I was wondering how I could find this out. I bought the car used 4 years ago and I have no clue now if it does. I was wondering because I'm about to change the front axel and was wondering off hand if it was a tedious process. I got quoted from a repair shop it'd cost me $170 including parts and labor but a buddy of mine said he might be able to do it for me. I have a 1999 Accord LX 4 dr.

 

Off the top of my head I can think of a few ways:
1) read the owners manual if you have it
2) go to a vacant parking lot, get up to speed (about 50mph or so), stomp on the brakes. If the brakes lock up and the car starts to skid, you don't have ABS.
The 4 door LX V6 came standard with ABS, the LX 4cyl 4door had "optional" ABS

 

i agree with option 2. plus it would be more fun. if the pavement is wet, you dont need nearly that much speed.

 

Yeah you probably don't need that much speed even if it's dry. I just think it would be more fun and you would probably find out for sure.

 

lol, thats kind of out of the question. The transmission isn't really holding up too well...it's ok, but I can't put stress on it and that would be putting stress on it.

 

My dad's 01 accord only locks up when im goin slower than 30mph. Any ideas why? I've stomped on the brakes at 95, 70, and 60mph before and it never locked up. But whenever I go below 30mph and stomp on the brakes they always lock up. Car doesn't have ABS.

 

Why not do things the easy way, pop the hood and look for the ABS module near the cruise control or when you start your car, see if there's an ABS light that lights up.

Since you have an LX and so do I, I'm going to assume you don't.

 

so me and my friend started working on the car, BTW it doesn't have ABS, but we ran into a bit of a problem. So we go down to Pep Boys, a axel for my car was 109 including the core. The guy brings it out the axel and my friend looks at it and said that he thinks this is the axel for a car with ABS. He said there are splines (sp) on one end of the axel where a car with ABS is designed for and we need one that doesn't have that. The guy said that according to the computer, the box is the right box because of the serial marking on it. So we left thinking it wouldnt make a difference.....

So we take out my old one, it was broken!!! We put the old axel and the new one side by side and they were the same length but the old axel didn't have the splines on it. The new axel went in with ease and we put everything back together.

So we deiceded to test it out. I put the car it reverse, the car locks in and moves in reverse as normal.....but when I put it in drive thats where things turn to crap. The car gets loud and starts revving and not going nowhere. So I shut the engine off and put it in neautral and we pushed it back into the garage. Wtf is this about?!?! My friend was saying that he thinks that the guy sold us the wrong axel....does anybody have any opinions on this?

 

Did your friend fully seat the inside axle end into the differential or intermediate shaft end? It should go in w/ a firm push and you should hear an audible snap. If not, the shaft may push out and uncouple leading to no wheel drive.

I have a low opinion of CV axles from any of the major auto parts houses. I've been to a sweatshop in Houston where they rebuild CV joint driveshafts. It wasn't aconfidence-building tour. Basically all they did was swab old grease, slap in some new grease, new boot and bands, and presto a "rebuilt shaft". I was getting a new boot put on my old axle, but the rebuild process was pretty evident. That combined w/ fair number of reports by posters w/ early failures in rebuilt axles suggests that what I saw may be common.

good luck

 

On hondapartsdeals.com, the non-ABS and ABS versions have differnt OEM part numbers (44305-S4K-A02 vs 44305-S4K-A52). That difference might due to the splines.

IMO, I don't think that the splines should make a difference in performance.

If the axle worked fine in reverse, then it should work fine in drive. How did you original axle break?