I've hada long-running, highly intermittent failure-to-start in my 94EX. It seemed like Main Fuel Relay (sitting in sun all day, hot days) and no fuel pump sound, however a new MFR resulted in same problem. I rigged a tell-tale light to the fuel pump power lead at in the trunk access cover and had the light on the floor of pax seat where I could easily see.

Wouldn't you know the car went several months w/ no problems and tell-tale merrily blazing away. I began to think the problem had "repaired itself", but finally last week I a got a no-start and tell-tale light was ON, indicating power was available to the fuel pump, however fuel pump was not running. I was finally able to get fuel pump to start by hammering the pump w/ repeated applications of power from keyswitch. I ordered a new pump and installed this weekend. I bought an aftermarket fuel pump from an ebay vendor (superpartsinc). More on that below.

I used the 94 Honda Accord shop manual notes and found them OK, but a few key steps are either incorrect or misleading.

1) Remove Fuel Tank
First step is to lift the rear end and securely support on jackstands. You have to crawl under the vehicle rear end to do this job, so no short cuts here. Lift the vehilce as high as possible for best access. This part of the job went per the manual w/ some key departures. The manual states to "disconnect the 2P and 3P connectors" presumably from fuel tank, however this is simply wrong. You disconnect the fuel gauge and fuel pump power from it's harness in the trunk and leave the electrical harness to the fuel tank connected to the tank. It is necessary to separate the harness from the fuel gauge access plate cover (push rubber harness fitting from plate). Push the harness through access hole and on top of the fuel tank. It will come out and stay w/ the tank. Also disconnect the hoses and tubes at their "car side end" rather than their "tank side end". Manual doesn't say and it wasn'tobvious (at least to me). Two straps hold the tank in place and tank may drop down when the back ends of the strapsare released. I used a foot-stool and shim board to allow the back end of the tank to lower. Remove the drain plug and drain excess gas into a storage vessel. I ran the car down to almost empty and still had 2-3 gallons to catch. Don't try this job w/ anything more than 1/8 full unless you want to spend at lot of time draining the tank. Don't expect to catch every drop.

2) Replace Fuel Pump
This is relatively straightforward and follows the manual. Only complication I had was the replacement pump inlet screen interfered with the fuel pump support bracket. Basically, the inlet screen neck was too short. I was able to remove the inlet screen from the old pump and install to my new pump. Pump fit fine other than this one issue. OEM pump may be worth the difference in cost (My cost was $60, while OEM was over $200). Make sure you have a new crush washer for the banjo bolt securing the high pressure fuel connection to the tank. This fitting is inaccessible w/o removing the tank. You don't want to reinstall everything and have a fuel leak at this inaccessible fitting.

3) Reinstall Fuel Tank
No problems here, however the tank is a bit awkward to muscle into position and lift. Footstool or some other support is essential to assist supporting the tank while you reattach the straps. Clean the bolts and lubricate to assist starting and running them up.

4) Restart Engine
Manual says nothing about restarting after fuel pump replacement. I coud hear the pump running but engine would not start. I think the large amount of air in the lines could not be cleared despite the closed circuit fuel supply/return system. I removed the bleed bolt in the fuel rail and turned fuel pump on for a few seconds. A geyser of fuel appeared after about 3-4 seconds of air. I let car air-dry for 30 minutes while I put my tools away. It started immediately later.

I spent about 6 hrs total, including time to run to local auto parts and purchase a crush washer. I would expect an experienced mechanic w/ a lift could do this job in 2-3 hrs.

Honda fuel pumps are very reliable, but if you need to replace it's not a terrible job.

Regards

 

Good informative post.

I hope I never need it, but it's nice to know it's here.

 

I think you could've saved yourself about 5hrs if you'd just pulled the pump out from the trunk where the cover is.

 

That's not always possible for all years/models.

 

There is a cover to access the fuel gauge assy on pax side of trunk, but no cover for the fuel pump on driver's side. Not sure why as it appears there is plenty of room. Indeed, if there were an access cover you could pull the pump w/o dropping the tank and save 3-4 hrs of my time.

BTW, I underestimated the Honda fuel pump. It is over $350 but includes everything in a complete tank insert assy. I would do the same thing again for $300 difference.

regards

 

Good info TexasHonda. One question if I may. My gas gauge shows plenty of gas in tank but it's running out of gas sooner and sooner with each fill up. I also hear a loud buzzing noise under the rear passenger side seat. The only time the fuel gauge is correct is when I fill the tank.
Is this a fuel pump problem?

 

Got my access done, so easy. It's right up against where the backseat would be if it weren't folded down. There was a small hole in the body already, it probably use to have a plug in it. I just started cutting from there, plenty of room. I sprayed some pb blaster on the nuts, I'll knock it out this weekend. I'm going to get another pump from a junk yard, it will probably last longer than whatever Autozone will sell me and cost me 15% of the price. Are the pumps for these 94-97 accords all the same?

 

I'm sure the 94-97 pumps are all the same. Check car-part.com for donors. It will show all years w/ donor pumps.

good luck

 

This is an older thread but it's a good one to keep around. To add a detail to TexasHonda's great instructions, before you start lowering the tank, make sure that it will clear the exhaust system shrouding (the sheet metal above the cat and piping). This may be more of a California car detail or year and model specific because it doesn't always show up in the tank-removal discussions, including my 3 manuals. If you DON'T and start lowering the tank, it can get hung up on the edge of the sheet metal and mean you at least have to backtrack. For me, this meant jacking it back up so I could disconnect two exhaust hangers and get to the attaching bolts easier. When it's one person crawling around under the car juggling the tank, the various hoses, a floor jack, etc., it's nice if things go as smoothly as possible!